Make sure to use organic potatoes; here colorful, strangely shaped native varieties are available which don’t require nasty chemicals, but they can be difficult to find.

Many “locros” are eaten in the Andes, but a superior one which is also wonderfully quick and simple is made from potatoes in Ecuador. Tourists will remember a colorful almost orange soup, thick and creamy (and amazingly with no cream), topped with a thick slice of avocado and, if lucky, served with red chile tamarillo salsa.

I am happy to share my recipe for the favorite of all potato soups.

“Locro de papa” Creamy Ecuadorian Potato Soup

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon annatto oil (gives the characteristic golden hue, but could be left out)
2/3 cup chopped scallion
2 lbs. Yukon gold or other mealy potato, peeled (approx. 6 medium potatoes)
1½ cups milk
6 cups hot water
salt and pepper
1 cup “queso blanco”, crumbled or grated (substitute cow’s milk feta)
(optional – 2 sprigs cilantro)

In a heavy 4-5 qt. saucepan, heat vegetable and annatto oils. Add scallions and sauté over low heat until transparent.

Slice half of the potatoes thinly. Cut the others in 1½ inch chunks. Add all the potatoes to the sauce pan and stir constantly, over médium-high heat for 5-10 minutes until potatoes are somewhat browned and transparent. Let them stick somewhat, that gives flavor.

Add the milk, when boiling add the water, salt and pepper. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes or until the sliced potatoes have partly disintegrated and thickened the “locro”. (This process can be helped along by mashing some of the potato against the sides of the saucepan with a wooden spoon.)

Just before serving, heat with the cheese and cilantro.
Make sure to top the soup bowl with a thick avocado slice and serve with your favorite salsa.

Makes 4 main dish servings.

What most impresses me about this soup is the novel use of the smooth, luscious peanut sauce. Although I like cooking a red chile into the peanut sauce, in Ecuador a thin, hot sauce would be present on the table and those who’d like would add a drop or a spoonful.

This soup makes a great meal for a cold evening.

1 lb. beef chuck with bones
salt
1 whole onion
1 leek, well-washed
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon oregano
5 sprigs cilantro
6 russet potatoes, peeled and left whole
3 cups of individual cabbage leaves, cut into 1 1/2 inch squares

Peanut sauce:
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, minced (or scallions)
1/2 teaspoon achiote paste or powder or substitute 1/2 teaspoon paprika (this is only used to tint the sauce a reddish-gold)
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
2 cups milk
1/2 cup smooth, natural peanut butter (no sugar added)
1 jalapeño or serrano chile, whole with a slit, optional

In a heavy, large saucepan, brown the chuck in no fat. Add 12 cups cold water, heat and remove scum from time to time. Add salt, onion, leek, garlic, oregano and 3 sprigs of cilantro and simmer over very low heat for approximately 1 hour or until the meat is very tender.

Strain the broth, pressing down on the vegetable, and leaving the meat in it. Remove the bones from the broth, and cut the meat in bite-sized pieces, if necessary. Remove as much fat as possible from the broth.

Add the whole potatoes to the broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage squares and the remaining sprigs of cilantro, chopped and simmer for an additional 10 minutes or until the vegetables are soft.

To make the peanut sauce: Heat the oil in a heavy 1-qt. saucepan. Add the minced onion and sauté over low heat until soft. Add the salt, cumin and pepper. Add the milk and when it begins to bubble, whisk in the peanut butter.
Simmer (with the chile, if you choose) for 10-15 minutes until somewhat thick, (the consistency of a smoothie) stirring from time to time to prevent sticking.

Place a whole potato in each bowl and smoother with the soup and its goodies. Pour the peanut sauce over the potato and enjoy.

Yield: 6 servings.